Flywheel Kit Sinter Audi S2 S4 B3 S4 S6 2.2 20V Quattro MKB ADU ABY AAN SFlywheel Clutch Pressure Plate

yes, the pedal is often harder to press when a SACHS Performance reinforced clutch pressure plate is installed.

How much harder is difficult to say and varies. However, with the reinforced standard clutches, the hardness of the pedal remains quite the same.

Yes – a new clutch should be broken in. We recommend a break-in period of several hundred kilometers after installation, typically around 500 km (for some setups, even up to 1,000 km). During this time, the clutch lining optimally adapts to the flywheel and pressure plate, manufacturing and handling residues are "removed," and a clean contact pattern is formed. This ensures optimal functionality and durability later on.

Important: If the clutch is overloaded or "abused" during the first kilometers, the lining can overheat and get damaged (e.g., glazing/warping). Such damages are generally not covered by warranty because they result from improper use.

How to properly break in your new clutch

• Start gently and moderate loads: During the first kilometers, avoid full-throttle starts or hard launches.

• Shift up early / shift down late: Keep RPMs and loads low, especially in lower gear ranges.

• Do not let it slip: Especially on hills, do not "hold" with the clutch, but start with the handbrake instead.

• No additional load: During the first 500 km, avoid towing trailers/caravans and strong continuous loads as much as possible.

Is "clutch judder" normal at the beginning?

Yes, after a clutch replacement, occasional judder or a slightly different pedal/start feel may occur in the first kilometers. This usually settles during the break-in period.

However, if the judder remains noticeable even after about 1,000 km, you should have it checked in a workshop – it could be due to an installation or adjustment issue (release system, flywheel, alignment, etc.).

Our Epytec flywheels do not have a stamped TDC marking and generally no additional ignition markings either. This is intentionally designed because, depending on the engine/gearbox combination, housing/pointer, sensors, and peripherals used, different markings or references are required. Instead of a universal marking, we use – as with the original – the mechanical reference via the pin on the back (corresponding to the principle of the series flywheel).

How do I correctly transfer the TDC marking?

If you need a visible TDC marking for your settings (e.g., for timing), proceed as follows:

1. Turn the original flywheel to TDC before disassembly (set the engine exactly to TDC).

2. In this position, check the TDC position on the original at the pointer/marking window.

3. Transfer TDC marking to the new flywheel:
   Mount/align the new flywheel in the same position (via the pin as in the original) and mark the TDC position accordingly on the new flywheel.

This way, you have a TDC marking that fits exactly to your engine/setup.

Basically, you can assume that our Epytec flywheels have a friction coefficient at least at the level of an original cast flywheel. In practice, it is often even slightly better due to the higher alloyed steel used, as the material offers a very stable friction surface.

However, it's important to note that the "actually usable" friction coefficient in the vehicle is not determined solely by the flywheel but always by the overall system – primarily, this includes:

• the material of the clutch disc/friction linings (organic, sintered, performance blends)

• the condition and surface of the friction surfaces (clean, grease-free, correctly installed)

• the proper break-in of the clutch to ensure an even contact pattern

The lining material, in particular, has the greatest influence here. If you use a sport or sinter clutch, the friction behavior can differ significantly from a standard clutch. Therefore, you should inquire about the exact friction coefficient or the specifications of the friction disc from the manufacturer of the clutch/friction disc.

Our flywheels are delivered with the specified unbalance (i.e., not "neutral" to zero).

This is how we set the unbalance precisely: We first balance the flywheel to 0. Then, we attach a test mass at the designated location, which exactly corresponds to the desired unbalance, and balance the flywheel with this test mass again to 0. Once the test mass is removed, the exact specified unbalance remains in the flywheel.